Cosmetic Waxes
What Is It?
Ozokerite, Ceresin and Montan Wax are mineral waxes, derived from coal and shale. Paraffin and Microcrystalline Wax are derived from petroleum. Beeswax is secreted by honeybees. Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax and Rhus Succedanea Fruit (Japan) Wax are plant-derived waxes. Emulsifying Wax, Synthetic Wax and Synthetic Beeswax are manufactured waxes. In cosmetics and personal care products, these waxes are used in a wide range of product types, including lipsticks, baby products, eye and facial makeup, as well as nail care, skin care, sunscreens, fragrance and non-coloring hair preparations.
Why Is It Used?
Beeswax and plant waxes help to keep an emulsionA mixture of two liquids that normally cannot be mixed, in which one liquid is dispersed in the other liquid as very fine droplets. Emulsifying agents are often used to help form the emulsion and stabilizing agents are used to keep the resulting emulsion from separating. The most common emulsions are oil-in-water emulsions (where oil droplets are dispersed in water) and water-in-oil emulsions (where water droplets are dispersed in oil). from separating into its individual liquid components, especially in cosmetics and personal care products that require a creamy consistency. These waxes, and other mineral waxes like Oxokerite, increase the thickness of the lipidFat or fat-like substance found in the cells of plants and animals that includes fats, waxes, oils, and related compounds. (oil) portion of solid and stick-like products such as lipstick, giving them structure and allowing for a smooth application. When used in eye makeup, waxes stiffen but do not harden the product; their flexibility and plasticity facilitate application. These waxes may also function in depilatory products to remove unwanted hair mechanically and also to hold together the ingredients of a compressed cake.
The FDA Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program (VCRP) data for 2021 report the following number of uses for cosmetic waxes:
- Ozokerite (611)
- Ceresin (263)
- Montan Wax (3)
- Paraffin (881)
- Microcrystalline Wax (1,426)
- Beeswax (2,062)
- Candelilla (879)
- Carnauba (1,250)
- Japan (6)
- Emulsifying Wax (20)
- Synthetic Wax (1,000)
- Synthetic Beeswax (295)
Safety Information
United States
CIR
The safety of Candelilla Wax, Carnauba Wax, Japan Wax and Beeswax was assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient ReviewThe Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) was established in 1976 as an independent safety review program for cosmetic ingredients. The CIR Expert Panel consists of independent experts in dermatology, toxicology, pharmacolgy and veterinary medicine. The CIR includes participation by the U.S. Food & Drug Administration and the Consumer Federation of America. (CIR) Expert Panel in 1984, The Panel concluded that all are safe as used in cosmetics under present practices of use and concentration. In accordance with CIR Procedures, the Panel re-evaluated these ingredients in 2003, along with additional cosmetic waxes (Ceresin, Montan Wax, Paraffin, Microcrystalline Wax, Ozokerite, Rhus Succedanea Fruit Wax, and Synthetic Wax); the Panel concluded that the original safety assessment remained scientifically valid and, therefore, the safety assessment was not reopened.
The CIR Expert Panel concluded Ozokerite, Ceresin, Montan Wax, Paraffin, Microcrystalline Wax, Emulsifying Wax, Syntethic Wax and Synthetic Beeswax have, at most, a potential for mild skin irritation, mild or no eye irritation and that these waxes do not result in dermal sensitization.
When formulations containing these ingredients were tested, they produced no skin irritation and the formulations were not phototoxic.
FDA
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Beeswax, Candelilla Wax, Carnauba Wax and Japan Wax on its list of substances considered Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS“GRAS” is an acronym for the phrase Generally Recognized As Safe. Under sections 201(s) and 409 of the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (the Act), any substance that is intentionally added to food is a food additive, that is subject to premarket review and approval by FDA, unless the substance is generally recognized, among qualified experts, as having been adequately shown to be safe under the conditions of its intended use, or unless the use of the substance is otherwise excluded from the definition of a food additive.) for direct addition to food. FDA permits Paraffin to be used as an ophthalmic emollient in over-the-counter (OTC) ophthalmic drug products (21CFR349.14). FDA also includes Ceresin, Montan Wax and Paraffin on its list of indirect food additives that can be used as components of adhesives (21CFR175.105).
European Union (EU)
All of the cosmetic waxes reviewed on this webpage (except Emulsifying Wax) are listed on the EU’s Inventory of Cosmetic Ingredients (CosIng